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Glasgow, the Mughals and One Slightly Confused Brass Pan: The True(ish) Story of Chicken Tikka Masala

Little Miss India
Glasgow, the Mughals and One Slightly Confused Brass Pan: The True(ish) Story of Chicken Tikka Masala

Photo: Kelly Sue, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Every Friday, somewhere in Britain, a chicken tikka masala is ordered before the person ordering has even taken their coat off. It is muscle memory. It is comfort. It is, statistically speaking, probably being eaten within a ten-minute walk of a B&Q right now.

And yet most people who order it weekly couldn't tell you where it came from. So we did what any self-respecting small kitchen would do: we staged an investigation, dragged our kitchen team into it, and got thoroughly sidetracked by history.

Suspect One: The Glasgow Theory

The most famous origin story goes like this. Sometime in the 1970s, a customer at a Glasgow curry house (the Shish Mahal, if you believe the plaques, and we do — Glasgow has plaques for everything) complained that his chicken tikka was too dry. The chef, Ali Ahmed Aslam, allegedly whipped up a sauce from tomato soup, spices and cream, and boom: a national treasure was born.

Our head chef, Ravi, has opinions on this. "Tomato soup," he told us, pointing a wooden spoon at nobody in particular, "is the polite version of the story. Every kitchen had its own shortcut. That's the real point — it was invented by improvisation, the same way every good curry is."

Is the Glasgow story entirely true? Almost certainly not entirely. Is it entirely false? Also no. Which makes it, much like the dish itself, a comforting blend rather than a pure single origin.

Suspect Two: The Mughal Ancestry Claim

Here's where the history gets properly fun. Chicken tikka — the marinated, tandoor-cooked bits — goes back centuries. The Mughal emperors of India were big on meats marinated in yoghurt and spices, cooked fast over fierce coals. The tikka is genuinely, verifiably old. We're talking ancestors with their own courts and staff.

The masala part, though? The creamy, tomatoey, gently sweet sauce? That's a British invention wearing a lovely outfit. It's what happens when a subcontinental cooking tradition meets a British palate that really, really wants some sauce with that, thank you.

Ravi puts it best: "Chicken tikka masala is the Mughal Empire's grandchild who moved to Britain, got a proper job and developed a taste for cream. We're proud of it anyway."

Suspect Three: The Brass Pan (a.k.a. Our Kitchen)

The final leg of the journey is the least glamorous and the most important. Somewhere between the spice tins and your doorstep, one of our team is doing the actual work: marinating the chicken overnight in yoghurt, ginger and garlic; charring it until the edges go properly smoky; building the sauce in stages because you cannot rush a masala, no matter what the internet says.

We timed it once, for science. From tin to pan, our masala takes about as long as two episodes of a sitcom. Worth every minute, and yes, we've tried shortcuts, and no, we're not proud.

Why the Mystery Doesn't Matter (But Is Still Lovely)

There's a school of thought that says a dish with a murky origin story is somehow lesser. We disagree, loudly. Chicken tikka masala is a collaboration — between Glasgow and Delhi, between the tandoor and the tomato, between a chef improvising in the 1970s and the thousands of cooks who've tweaked it since.

It's also, according to various surveys, one of the most popular dishes in Britain. A slightly confused, thoroughly delicious mongrel of a dish that conquered the nation from a small kitchen. Honestly? We relate.

The Verdict

So the next time you order one — and you will, this Friday probably — spare a thought for its long, winding, slightly disputed journey. The Mughal coals, the Glasgow soup tin, the brass pan on our hob, the foil container, your doorstep.

Not bad for a dish that started life as a complaint about dry chicken.

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